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Chicken biryani
Spiced chicken sealed under saffron rice, crisp onions and mint, steamed in its own pot. A weekend project.
Biryani is a layered rice and meat dish, fragrant with whole spices and saffron, cooked so the rice stays separate and the chicken stays juicy. The grains and marinated meat are layered and steamed together so the flavours mingle. It is a celebratory dish worth the extra steps.
Ingredients
- 1 kg chicken thigh, bone-in, skinless
- 250 g natural yoghurt
- 3 tbsp biryani masala
- 4 garlic cloves, grated
- 1 thumb ginger, peeled and grated
- 1 lemon, juiced
- 4 tsp salt, 1 for the chicken, 3 for the rice water
- 150 ml vegetable oil, for frying the onions
- 3 onions, thinly sliced
- 2 tbsp ghee
- 450 g basmati rice
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 pinch saffron threads
- 3 tbsp whole milk, warm
- 1 small bunch mint
- 1 small bunch coriander
Method
- Mix the yoghurt, biryani masala, garlic, ginger, lemon juice and 1 teaspoon of salt in a large bowl. Add the chicken and turn to coat. Cover and chill for at least 30 minutes, or up to overnight; the yoghurt tenderises the meat and the spices soak in.
- Heat the oil in a large, heavy ovenproof casserole with a tight-fitting lid over a medium-high heat. Fry the onions, stirring often, until deep golden brown and crisp, 15 to 20 minutes, turning the heat down as they darken so they colour evenly. Lift out with a slotted spoon onto kitchen paper.
- Pour all but 2 tablespoons of the oil into a heatproof bowl, add the ghee and set the pan over a medium heat. Add the chicken with its marinade and half the crispy onions. Cover and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring now and then, until the chicken is opaque all over but still slightly pink at the bone, and the sauce coats it.
- Meanwhile, rinse the rice until the water runs almost clear, then soak it in cold water for 20 minutes. Warm the milk, crumble in the saffron and leave it to steep. Heat the oven to 160°C (140°C fan) and bring a large pan of water to the boil with the bay leaves and 3 teaspoons of salt.
- Drain the rice and tip it into the boiling water. Cook for 5 to 6 minutes, until the grains have lengthened but still have a firm, chalky core when you bite one; they finish in the steam. Drain well and pick out the bay leaves.
- Chop the mint and coriander leaves. Scatter half of the herbs over the chicken, then spoon the rice over in an even layer without pressing it down. Drizzle the saffron milk over the top in streaks, then scatter with the rest of the herbs and the remaining crispy onions.
- Cover the pot tightly with foil, then the lid, so no steam escapes. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the rice is tender and the chicken is cooked through: check a piece at the edge, it should show no pink at the bone and the juices run clear (75°C on a probe).
- Rest the pot, still sealed, for 10 minutes, so the steam finishes the top grains. Take it to the table and serve by digging a spoon right down to the bottom, so everyone gets fluffy rice, chicken and some of the saucy base. A cucumber raita, shop-bought or homemade, is the traditional cool side.
Tips
- Parboil the rice until just under done, since it finishes cooking in the steam of the layered pot.
- Marinate the chicken in spiced yoghurt ahead of time so it stays tender and flavourful.
- Layer rice and chicken, seal the pot tightly, and let it finish in a low oven (the dum method), so the trapped steam cooks the rice through.
Common questions
What rice should I use for biryani?
Long-grain basmati is essential for its fragrance and separate, fluffy grains. Rinse and soak it before cooking.
Can I make biryani ahead?
Yes, it reheats well, gently with a splash of water and a tight lid to steam it back to life without drying out.