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Risotto alla milanese

Saffron-gold, butter-rich risotto, the one Milan serves with osso buco.

40 min 35 min hands-on Serves 4 Italian Kid friendly

Risotto alla milanese is the golden, saffron-scented risotto of Lombardy, traditionally served alongside osso buco. Its luxurious colour and gentle floral aroma come from a pinch of saffron bloomed in warm stock. Made well it is creamy and loose, a dish about technique rather than a long ingredient list.

Ingredients

  • 1.2 L chicken or vegetable stock
  • 1 pinch saffron threads, about 0.2g
  • 70 g butter, 20g for the shallot, 50g cold and diced for the finish
  • 1 shallot, finely chopped
  • 320 g carnaroli or arborio rice
  • 100 ml dry white wine
  • 80 g parmesan, finely grated
  • salt, to taste

Method

  1. Heat the stock in a saucepan until small bubbles break at the edge, 5 to 8 minutes, then keep it just below a simmer over a low heat. Crumble the saffron into a cup, cover it with a small ladle of the hot stock and leave to steep for 10 minutes, so the threads give up their colour. Meanwhile, chop the shallot and grate the parmesan.
  2. While the saffron steeps, melt 20g of the butter in a wide, heavy saucepan over a medium-low heat. Add the shallot with a pinch of salt and cook gently, stirring now and then, until soft and translucent but not coloured, 4 to 5 minutes.
  3. Turn the heat up to medium and add the rice. Stir for 1 to 2 minutes, until the edges of the grains turn translucent and it smells toasty, so they hold their shape as they cook. Pour in the wine and stir until it is almost absorbed, 1 to 2 minutes.
  4. Add a ladle of hot stock and stir often, keeping it at a steady simmer, until it is almost absorbed, then add the next. The stirring draws starch from the rice and makes it creamy. After 7 to 8 minutes, pour in the saffron and its liquid and watch the rice turn gold.
  5. Keep adding stock a ladle at a time for another 8 to 10 minutes, until the rice is tender with a slight bite in the centre and the risotto flows slowly when you tilt the pan. You may not need all the stock; if you run out, use hot water.
  6. Take the pan off the heat. Add the cold diced butter and the parmesan and beat hard with a wooden spoon until glossy, then cover and rest for 1 minute. Season with salt and serve loose on warm plates, with osso buco if you have it, or a crisp green salad.

Tips

  • Bloom the saffron threads in a little warm stock for a few minutes to draw out the colour and flavour before adding.
  • Add the hot stock a ladle at a time, stirring, and only add more once the previous addition is absorbed.
  • Finish off the heat with cold butter and grated Parmesan, beating it in to make the risotto glossy and creamy.

Common questions

What rice is best for risotto?

Use a short-grain starchy rice such as Carnaroli or Arborio, which releases the starch that makes the dish creamy.

Can I use stock powder instead of fresh stock?

Yes, a good quality stock works fine, but keep it hot in a separate pan and go easy on added salt since saffron and Parmesan are already savoury.