Caesar salad

Method

1. Heat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan). Meanwhile, tear the ciabatta into rough 2cm chunks, since torn edges crisp better than cut ones. Toss on a tray with the 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the bashed garlic and a pinch of salt. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, shaking the tray halfway, until golden and crisp right through. Throw away the garlic and cool the croutons on the tray.
2. Meanwhile, separate the romaine leaves, wash them and dry them really well in a salad spinner or a clean tea towel, since wet leaves dilute the dressing and stop it clinging. Tear the larger leaves in half and keep them in the fridge while you make the dressing.
3. Finely grate 40g of the parmesan. Sit a large bowl on a damp tea towel so it cannot spin. Mash the anchovies and the grated garlic in it to a paste with a fork, then whisk in the egg yolks, mustard, Worcestershire sauce and the juice of half the lemon. The yolks stay raw, so use pasteurised eggs for pregnant guests, small children or the elderly.
4. Whisking all the time, add the 80ml of oil a few drops at a time, so the yolks can take it in without splitting, then in a thin, steady stream once it starts to thicken. Keep going until all the oil is in and it is glossy and creamy. If it turns greasy and separates, whisk in a teaspoon of cold water, then carry on.
5. Stir in the grated parmesan and plenty of black pepper, then taste. Add more lemon for brightness and salt only if it needs it, since the anchovies and cheese are salty already. It should be thick but pourable, so loosen it with a teaspoon or two of water if needed. Keep it in the fridge and use it the same day.
6. Just before serving, spoon about 2 tablespoons of the dressing into a cup for later. Tip the leaves into the bowl with the rest and toss with your hands so every leaf is coated. Pile onto a platter, scatter over the croutons, shave the rest of the parmesan over with a peeler and drizzle with the dressing from the cup. Serve straight away, alone or next to roast chicken.